==================================================================

ABS Reluctors, segment/opening count:

3.08: 22 teeth
3.42: 20 teeth
3.73: 18 teeth
4.10: 16 teeth
4.56: 14 teeth

Reluctor P/N:

26018946 is for 3.73
26018945 is for 3.42
xxxxxxxx is for 3.08

==================================================================

B-body VIN decoder from the good folks on the HERD
site and the Infamous Scott Mueller!!

CLICK HERE For the Vin Decoder
 

==================================================================

Rear brake caliper mounts

Dorman p/n 619-001

Here's some bolt cost information--current "cost" pricing from gmpartsdirect.com--add 10% for a "reality" check--all
of these parts are from PBR in Australia

18022147 $5.19 rear caliper guide pin 
14067559 $0.80 rear guide pin bolt--THIS IS THE BOLT BEING REFERRED TO 
12337902 $1.21 rear caliper bracket bolt (normally sells as a package of 10)--also has thread sealant applied 
14067552 $2.14 rear caliper guide pin boot 
18021519 $28.03 caliper brackets for 9C1 (cad plated) 
18021945 $51.57 caliper brackets for Impala (black finish)

As an alternative, the Dorman 619-001 bracket kit (costs under $25 from most sources) includes:
1 bracket (equivalent to 18021519), 2 guide pins, 2 guide pin boots, 2 guide pin bolts

As some have noted, it is probably a good thing to use the GM/PBR caliper pin bolts with the Dorman kit, since the
heads on the bolts with the kit are noticeably smaller, which gives me less confidence, personally--for $2 I'd use the
GM parts instead.
 --------------------

 Bill Harper   from the Impala Forum   5/29/03

================================================================

AN Size conversion/equivalents

AN Dash Size  Nominal Equivalent    Hose I.D. 

3           3/16"            1/8" 
4           1/4"            7/32" 
6           3/8"           11/32" 
8           1/2"            7/16" 
10          5/8"            9/16" 
12          3/4"           11/16" 
16            1"             7/8" 

This AN or Army/Navy standard was setup to designate the outside diameter of hoses and fittings.   These dash numbers are expressed as a numerator of a fraction who denominitor is always 16.   i.e, an AN-8 fitting is a 8/16's or 1/2 fitting, outside diameter wise.

I used the FBC 3000 psi rated -4 hose on my T56 clutch hydraulics, which has a ID of .190, and an OD of .300, working pressure is 3000 psi, burst is 12000 psi.   The larger the hose the lower the working pressure BTW, and as an example the same hose in a -12 size is only rated at 625 psi working, and 2500 psi burst..  Here's the hose spec/description from their website:

Aeroquip 2807/FC807 stainless steel/smooth bore Teflon hose SAE 100R14 PTFE hose. Extruded PTFE tube with stainless steel single wire braid. Operating temperature range -100F to +450F.

================================================================
 

Small Dash lights, like the headlight switch and AC controls  (5/27/03)

Subject: Re: 96 Impala - Headlight Switch Illumination Bulb
From: "Peter Cordes" <pcomp@ntsource.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 22:52:56 -0500
,
The lightbulb is available at just about any RadioShack store under
catalog #272-1092 . However some assembly will be required to get the
bulb into the existing holder, but the light itself does work as a very
suitable replacement. I did it for my old car and I have a bulb here so
I can replace the light in my current one.
 

================================================================
 

87 Corvette "Magnesium" Valve covers

These are what the covers look like: http://www.gmassie.net/massieg/stage3_2.html

{ May 2001 prices from Dal )

10055781  cover  72.58 each  ( 1 each )
10055782    "  66.53 each  ( 1 each )
12558300  oil cap 2.84 each   ( 1 each )
12338092  bolts   .76 each   ( 8 each )
14094717  washer  2.24 each   ( 8 each )
14088793  bolt gaskets  .30 each   ( 8 each )
14088564  gaskets 7.99 each   ( 2 each )  you probably don't need these

These covers DO clear CompCam ProMagnum 1.6 Roller rockers with some amount of clearancing
inside the cover.
 

================================================================
 

You should also consider the deep tranny pan.

 It adds 2 liters of oil to the loop, so you get extra cooling.  It also has a DRAIN PLUG so you
can drain some off easily and replenish your tranny fluid much like your engine oil.

( May 2001 prices from Dal )

24208576        Oil Filter Kit   (extended filter)                   24.46/kit
24215535        Extra Deep trans pan w/torx head magnetic
                       drain plug  (OEM on Y2K Silverado)              36.92 each

================================================================
 

Some Info on Impala Headlights, wiring etc. ( 03/26/03 )
 

Sylvania 9004ST Silver Star 50/70W  Halogen bulbs

Naisso's Custom Painless Wiring Harness

Howard Rothstein's World Famous WhisperJet Harness

AWG Wiring Specs

Handy Little Ohms Law Java Script

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T84 Headlights, a complete story

A great article by Scott Mueller, hosted on the HERD website

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Bonneville Seats ( 12 way) :

 Years that fit are 1993-1995 SSEI are GREY leather.  96-97 ? are multiple colors but you can dye them
 

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Crane valve train parts

Crane Springs for LT1:      P/N 10309

Crane 1.6 Gold Race Aluminum Roller Rockers:   P/N  10758 
 ( 3/8 stud, self aligning )
 

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F-Body MAF

 GM P/N =
(3.250 inches in diameter ( vice 3.0 for Impala )  plus the MAF sensor is cal'd differrent )

Impala Throttle Body =  48mm in diameter  ( as are ALL LT1 and LT4 TB's )
Impala Intake Bore = 52 mm in diamter

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Replacement headlamps

Sylvania 9004ST Silver Star headlight replacements:

http://www.sylvania.com/auto/silverstar.htm
 

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Replacement Fifth brake line:

According to the parts list, the same "5th" hose was used on all B-body applications, from 91-96. GM P/N 22111977
Also, per the parts list, the fitting on each side of the block is a 3/8 x 24 " inverted flare nut. If you have different size fitting provisions on each side of the Earl's part.

Picture

Earls - P/N for 5 line kit = 

Russell - P/N for 5 line kit = 
 

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Throttle Body Bypass dyno results, see it for yourself!
 

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LT1 Intake is the same on B-body and F-body, the Y-body has the fuel connections on the opposite side
 

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2001 MonteCarlo steering wheel with Cruise/Radio controls install or a  1999 Lumina wheel, give your car 'on wheel' cruise and radio controls
 

http://www.impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=002214

http://www.impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=000014

http://www.impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=000771

http://www.regionofdoom.com/tsb/b-body_633203a.pdf

http://www.impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=000980

http://www.impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=001002
 

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Z28 Cluster Install:

Want to put a Z28 cluster in your Impala or 9C1 ??

http://www.carissma.com/tech_tips.htm

http://www.speartech.com/

and the best one so far.....

http://www.z28.amsil.com/

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Reprogramming Remotes

There is a "programing connector" inside the trunk on the left side. It is a two conductor
connector. If you connect these two conductors together you will erase the receiver's memory for the remotes. Use a jumper wire. Don't be alarmed,when you connect the conducters together the receiver will verify this by locking all, unlock driver's, unlock all, release trunk. You can program new remotes, by pressing any button,
(jumper wire still in place), the system will verify by going thru the lock/unlock cycle. Then remove jumper.
 

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ALUMINIUM LT1 HEADS Versus Cast Iron

(Click here to see the  Impala SS Forum topic on this )
 

The LT1 head was derived from the Bowtie Phase 6 head development (race heads), and preceeding versions of the Bowtie, from the late 80s. Since the Vette always got the best stuff, the soonest, at least in Chevyland, then the Vette got the new heads along with the new engine development -- the LT1 for the 1992 model year.
Chevy could have made them out of iron, but that would have incensed Vette owners who has already had aluminum L98 heads for several years, nevermind adding weight to the Vette.

While the aluminum LT1 heads made their way onto 1992 Ycars, and 1993 Fcars, Chevy had an additional year to improve on the head flow and the changes that resulted went into the casting molds for the iron LT1 head (which debuted in 1994 model year, and were also used in the 1996-1999 L31 iron head).

Chevy never went back to add these improvements to the aluminum LT1 head toolings, but they did go a full step further by incorporating much of the lessons learned to the LT4 head (1996 Vette option) and to the aluminum Fastburn heads (conventional coolant path clones of the LT4).

Engineering wise, the iron heads will take more abuse and they don't absorb combustion heat as readily, so they are arguably more efficient. Of course they weigh A LOT more.

The aluminum heads do absorb combustion heat more readily, so they needed a slightly higher compression ratio to make up for the loss. FYI, HTH. - Ken 
 

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Interesting, gasoline is formulated in so many ways.
  Some for better starting, some for better mileage some for better performance.
  Then it is climatized and adjusted for altitude
  Winter gasoline is dangerous in Summer. I know from personal experience.

  The best way to monitor gas is to get a Specific Gravity Tester and a VOM.
  Some gasoline is lighter and requires actually richening up.
  Many racer have to do this when running very high test gas.

  All gasoline vary including 87 Octane.
  This formuation has been produced since the early 1900's.
  Most aircraft performance engines were built around that octane until WW2.
  Tetrethyl Lead was added to make 150 octane to get more performance out of engines.

  Then the problems started.  In Europe the Lead would fall out of solution in real cold weather.
  The P38 was renouned for blowing up there Allison engines. In the South Pacific they did great as it was much warmer.  In colder climates a heater was added and new formulations were developed.

  Then there is Dielectric strength.  Gasoline is supposes to be Valence neutral but if you get gasoline with a strong positive valence it tends to mix with air better expecially the negative Oxygen ions of air. IHRA and NHRA allow for one positive volt for the Pro classes to SuperStock, and +2.3 volts for Stock Eliminator

  In fact there are some experimental engines in the 80's that used a plate that ionized the incoming air flow to make gasoline mix better.  Especially the tougher chains.  It worked, but do not know what became of the experiments.  It worked much like Nitrous.

  Hoped this helped
  Dan Fahey

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Clear Front Cornering Lens

PRO PARTS dot com
 

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Cold Air Intakes

AutoCandy

LG Motor Sports

Thunder Racing

Fast Toys

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Ported MAF ends ( plastic, not aluminum )

Fast Toys ( Impala SS 3 inch MAF )
 
 

Performance MAFs with Ends (plastic, not aluminum)

JD's Performance
 

Changes for the English Metric switch function, and adding the 6H6/9C1 switch setup
(From a post by Mitch Posner on the b-body list 11-17-02)

1) Did you misplace my email address <g>?  I figured you would drop me a
line on this particular subject since performing the mod for ya <G>?
 

2) The answer lies on the FAQ Technical Archives:
http://impala.homeip.net/impala/technical/tech.cgi?interior%2Fswitches%2Ehtml

3) Here's the entire Technical Archives for your future reference:
http://impala.homeip.net/impala/technical/tech_index.cgi
 

The first link above is from "Installing the Wagon Switch Module".
Although the title implies "Wagon Switch Module", it also goes into
detail the switch you are requesting info about (6H6 or 9C1 switch).
Credit for Wagon Switch pinout goes to Basim Jaber and 6H6/9C1 to Ed
Runnion.  The E-M/TRIP and Passkey kill switches can be found there from
my own write-up there, except for the E-M/TRIP pinout.  Here is that
info:
 

For retaining Miles (English) function:
The pinout for the E-M/TRIP switch circuit board is pin #1 and pin #8 =
Kilometers or Miles, depending on switch on/off.  TRIP is a momentary
contact function that makes contact with BOTH pin #1 and pin #8, so if
you want the Miles (English) function, you need to connect both wires
together at pins #1 and #8 and remove those wires from the switch so the
cluster will always read Miles (English).  You are then free to use the
E-M switch for whatever else you want since they will then be
disconnected from the switch.
 

For retaining TRIP function:
You must remove the internal circuit board from the E-M/TRIP switch
since this switch is fundamentally different from the 6H6/9C1 switch
(OFF/TRUNK) and replace it with the circuit board from the 6H6/9C1
switch.  The 6H6/9C1 switch has both the top and bottom switches totally
isolated from another.  The original E-M/TRIP switch has both switches
feeding off each other (as explained above) since the TRIP circuit needs
to make contact with the E-M circuit for it to function properly.  If
you don't change the circuit board to a the 6H6/9C1 board, you will not
be able to fabricate two isolated switch circuits.  So to retain the
TRIP function, wire the E-M function together as explained above, wire
them to pin #8 (TRUNK function, momentary contact, bottom of the
6H6/9C1) then take the TRIP wire (wire connected to pin #2 or #7, one
has a wire connected to it and one doesn't, I don't have the schematic
for that here, so just take a quick peek whichever pin has a wire.  Wire
that to pin #7 (TRUNK function, momentary contact).
 

For wiring new application for switching at E-M button:
Providing you swapped the E-M circuit board for the 6H6/9C1 as above,
you can then use pin #1 and #2 for whatever you desire to use the E-M
button for.  For reference, see the first link above to see the pinout
for the 6H6/9C1 switch.  BE CAREFUL, THIS SWITCH (circuit board) WILL
NOT TAKE MUCH AMPERAGE!  They have a fusible link that will break as
soon as you do and you won't know it until it's too late.  USE A RELAY
FOR HIGH POWER DEVICES.  The passkey kill switches I wired for this mod
are already wired to a relay from the factory at the Passkey module, so
there was no need for them.
 

FTI, the writeup Basim and I did highlight the Passkey mods.  Basim
wrote the starter kill via the Passkey module and I wrote the fuel
cutoff via the Passkey.  You can instead wire the actual fuel pump wire
instead of the Passkey PCM fuel-enabler, but that would require a
separate relay.  The mod I propose for fuel cutoff is much simpler as a
result...fuel is cut within 5 seconds of starting engine.  That is the
Passkey version...read the writeup at the link provided above for
further info.
 

If anyone needs further help, please don't hesitate to contact me...Dave
<g>
Mitch Posner
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

gem 12/05/2006 08:35