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  Welcome
Gerry's 13SecSS site
 
 
 
I first converted my 96 Impala SS from an 
OBD2 PCM to an OBD1 PCM in 2001.  This was driven by encouragement 
from Bryan Herter at PCMFORLESS in the 
early summer of 2001.   I'm GLAD I did it... I got a nice boost in 
rear wheel horsepower and rear wheel torque.   Like 16 rwhp and 22 rwt!!  
Not bad for a bolt on mod!   Below is a short writeup on how this is 
done and why. 
There was also an issue at the time with 
the LT1 tuning software for the '96 PCM, which is OBD2.   VIN locking 
etc.   That was overcome in the OBD2 version of TunerCat about 2003 or 
so.    The club has access to both versions of TunerCat, OBD1 and 
OBD2 
Also... in 2004 when I converted my SS to 
a T56 six speed, the OBD1 PCM responded better to the changes needed.   
However since that time OBD2 PCM tuning issues for a T56 Impala has been 
overcome by PCMFORLESS! 
  - Gerry 
 
96 Impala SS PCM Conversion   
Why ?  Back in 2001 or so... to get access to 
better scan tools and better power... later in 2004 to get to the T56 
conversion.  Now?... likely not very necessary!! 
  
OBD2 ( p/n 16214399 ) 
 to 
 OBD1 ( p/n 16188051 ) 
1) No rewiring of the stock harness or connectors is required. 
The extra I/O signals are unused by the 8051 PCM. Leave them alone to allow easy 
swaps between the stock '96 PCM and the 8051.  
2) The knock sensors in the '96 are 100k ohm while the '94-'95 
style are 3.9k ohm. In the 8051 PCM, the knock sensors are in parallel on Blue 
pin 22, while in the '96 each comes in its own pin (Blue 21 & 22).  Easiest 
fix for this is to leave the stock '96 knock sensors in place and modify the 
8051 PCM for them. Internal to the 8051 PCM, you'll bridge Blue 21 & 22 together 
and then place a 2k ohm resistor from 
these pins to ground. This simulates the correct total parallel resistance that 
the PCM expects to see in order to pass DTC43 while also keeping the knock 
sensors active. You could also just swap over to the '94-'95 style sensors and 
simply bridge the pins together while omitting the resistor. Either solution 
works fine. 
 
 You will also need a tach conversion circuit, since 
this PCM, a 1618051, outputs an 8 cylinder tach signal, and the 96 Impala SS 
cluster tach REQUIRES a 4 cylinder tach signal.   i.e.  your 96 
tachometer would read 2 times the RPM if you didn't fix this little problem. 
(7-19-2011) There USED TO BE 3 sources for tach conversion circuits.  
Randy Acorcey, Sank Williams, and 
Eric Bryant.   
I believe Randy and Eric both sell their circuits publicly.  Sank has 
reserved his for local club members at the moment, since it takes about 1 to 1 
1/2  hours to put one together.    Not sure currently if 
Sank would be interested in building more, but you could ask. 
 Wiring this puppy into the PCM is a little more tricky.  
It requires you to disable the normal output from the PCM and solder in 4 wires 
( in the Sank Williams design ), the only one I have personally installed. 
 I will took some pictures and get can post more detail shortly.   
This page is a work in progress, but a labor to SHARE FREELY the information I 
have collected doing this myself.   I am updating it for Blair's 
efforts on a 32 Ford for a mutual friend of ours. 
Efforts for putting an LT1 in a car like the 32 Ford require a 
lot less wiring, but patience will reward you.    The PCM will 
also need some tweaking to get diagnostics turned off, and other tweaks 
depending on how many of the original features of this PCM you want to use. 
For programming sources I subscribe to either Bryan Herter/Alvin 
Andersen of PCMFORLESS, or Ed Hutchings 
at Automotive Technology. 
For more info, don't hesitate to contact me. 
Gerry- 
 
Converting a car to an LT1 ?  Try these 
links.   They are some good reading: 
LT1 Swap Pages 
LT1 Wiring 
Harness 
LT1 Wiring Page 
GM Port Injection page 
Here are 
basically all of the connections that need to be made in order to run your LT1. 
 
 
From the LT1 Swap Site: 
  
LT1 Basic Wiring 
with the 95-96 harness 
i.e. the minimum 
it takes to make it fire up 
 
White plug (10 spaces)  
  
E-pink wire = switched 
12v 
power 
  A-red wire = switched 
12v 
power 
 
Blue plug (10 spaces) 
D-white wire = hooks to tachometer 
 
(The following are 2 plugs up from the computer, one 8 pin and one 10 pin) 
 
8 pin connector 
B-pink wire = switched 
12v 
power 
 
10 pin connector 
A-pink wire = switched 
12v 
power 
G-pink wire = switched 
12v 
power 
 
4 pin connector (off of the computer pigtail) 
orange = constant 
12v power (hot at all times) 
red = 12v 
to the ignition (switched) 
black/white = ground 
purple = from starter to ignition ( this is the crank power to turn over the 
car) 
 
*The rest should just plug into the accessories, distributor, etc. 
 
*If you want to lockup the convertor using the ecm, you must 
hook up the brake signal switch! 
  
 
  
*The brake switch will tell the torque 
converter when to lock up.  It needs a normally "closed circuit", tail lights 
need a normally "open circuit" 
  
. 
  
  
 
  
  
  
gem
14 October 2014 12:09:36 PM -0400 
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